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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.